Lake Ridge joins ranks of area's best
 By Bob Goepfert, The Record
December 13, 2001

ROUND LAKE - We all dream of driving to some place like Vermont, New Hampshire or even further upstate New York, in hopes of finding a small inn that offers a sophisticated but homey environment bolstered by great food.

 

Well, save the drive. You only have to go up the Northway to Exit 11 and go east for about a mile to find that type of dining experience.

The recently opened Lake Ridge Restaurant, is a terrific hideaway located in the middle of Round Lake, which is itself a unique community that has kept its small-town integrity, while others surrounding it have been seduced by commercial development.

The meal Long Term and I had on a recent weekday evening was one of the better dining experiences we've had in the area.

The food, prepared by chef Scott Ringwood and the mood created by host Bob McKenna is one of casual sophistication that is inviting and genuine.

Their names might have a sense of the familiar about them, as the two were part of the team that made the Olde Dater Tavern a Clifton Park landmark for so many years.

After selling Olde Dater, McKenna purchased the building that housed the Sweet Nothings Restaurant. He's done extensive remodeling and has created a restaurant that has little in common with his past at Olde Dater, except a commitment to making the customer happy.

It's easy to be happy at Lake Ridge. Indeed, this would be a nice place to eat if the food were just average. But average is not a word you'll find again in this review. This is an upscale restaurant at which everything is first rate.

To begin with, the space is charming. The high-ceiling main dining area has been made intimate by a comfortable and relaxing paint scheme and reducing the seating capacity from 36 to 22 people by increasing the distance between tables.

They've converted the former retail space to two smaller dining areas, with a roaring fireplace in one. Both offer a comfortable sense of privacy.

This same sense of individuality carries over to the menu, which is small enough to seem almost personalized. It is obvious a document that changes frequently to take advantage of available fresh products.

Indeed, at our visit, there were only eight entrees listed along with three specials. Most of which hovered between $16-$20.

Appetizers are equally narrow in choice, with only six offered. We opted to share the Bostonian Shrimp at $9. The dish consists of four shrimp stuffed with horseradish and wrapped in bacon, accompanied by a dipping sauce that was primarily soy sauce.

Not only was it a fantastic beginning, as all the distinctive flavors combined for a superior whole, it foretold the quality of what was to follow.

Despite the short list of entrees, the fact that everything sounds enticing makes it harder to make a selection than at one of those chains with 14 pages of unexciting choices. At Lake Ridge, you know the food is prepared for the individual and that personal care goes into each offering.

I picked the Pork Rack Chop at $17.50, while Long Term was turned on by the Sea Scallops special served over linguine for $18. They were both winners.

My chop was huge, about two inches thick, covered with a sensational pecan coating. The cherry demi glaze brought tartness to the dish that had my mouth quivering with delight. The lean chop was cooked to perfection, while the delicate richness of the pecan crust was an ideal complement to the cherry sauce.

Usually a good glass of wine is pleasure in itself. This time my $4.50 glass of B.V. Coastal Chardonnay was a needed beverage with which to neutralize the richness of the meal. The combination was as satisfying as it was delicious.

Just as our excellent salads were made better by quality dressings (Creamy Blue Cheese for Long Term, Herb Raspberry Vinaigrette for me), my meal was improved by perfectly prepared roasted potatoes and a large yam that was sweet and luscious.

Long Term's Sea Scallops with linguine was more than advertised. It included black pepper linguine as well as the traditional linguine and came with a number of bonus ingredients, such as mushrooms, scallions and small cherry tomatoes, all capped by a flavor-enhancing teriyaki butter. The scallops were delicate, large and abundant.

Even though we each finished only about half our individual portions, we still felt deserving of dessert.

We split a piece of J&S Watkins triple chocolate cake that was as fantastic as everything else we sampled. The various chocolates blended to form a perfect whole that was neither too sweet nor too rich to be enjoyed. It was another $4.50 well spent, as we devoured it while sipping a very good cup of coffee.

There might be better bargains available, but for a complete dining experience, it is hard to do better than Lake Ridge Restaurant. The atmosphere, the warm, friendly and professional service, and the high standards of the kitchen make it one of the area's finer restaurants.

And the prices are not unreasonable. The entire meal, with an appetizer, a glass of wine and a dessert, complete with tax and a 20 percent tip, totaled a very fair $72.45.

Call ahead for reservations. Lake Ridge is already a very popular restaurant; it does a good business during the week and is usually full on weekends - deservedly so.

 

Lake Ridge Restaurant
35 Burlington Ave.
Round Lake

899-6000

  Hours

Lunch
11:30 a.m. - 2:30 p.m.
Dinner
Mon. - Sat. 5 p.m. - 8:45 p.m.

  No Smoking
Handicapped access: good
Value for $: 4 Stars Overall: 4 1/2 Stars
(Out of five)

  ŠThe Record 2001